Lone Dog Tour

Day 7, Bemidji, Minnesota

“My god!  You look just like someone I used to know, except a lot older.”

“Funny, I was thinking the same thing about you!”

And so went the good-natured ribbing among those of us at the Lone Dog Road reading at Four Pines bookstore in my old home town of Bemidji.

What a warm evening! Dear old friends, folks I recognized but didn’t know, folks I knew only slightly, but with whom I shared a common history on these too familiar streets.  This was not the Red Lake taproot.  This was the Bemidji intertwining of branches.

Four Pines bookstore felt courageous.  I know this town in the lakes and pines country 100 miles from the nearest freeway and 100 miles from the Canadian border.  I lived here for25 years.  I know how it has fought against meaningful social change and clung tightly to a culture of nostalgia. But things are changing. The young people are forcing it. They are saying, “We want more.  We want the bigger world.”  And they are getting it.

Micro-breweries, Thai restaurants and ramen shops.  Home grown businesses started by young, courageous entrepreneurs who want to embrace change, not resist it.

Four Pines Bookstore is one of these.  It has a brightness, an earnestness, a hopefulness.  Other bookstores have come and gone in this town — a crazy, topsy turvy bookstore of used books on jumbled shelves in an old Victorian house, a weirdly insular tiny Christian bookstore, an off-brand chain whose heart never really seemed in the enterprise, and now, Four Pines.  It has the modern, welcoming openness that puts it right in the mainstream of colorful, brightly lit independent bookstores around the country.  You can feel it enhancing the texture and dimension of the community by its presence.

The reading went well.  I am figuring out how to present this sprawling, hard-to-categorize novel.  But, even more, there was discussion about the interwoven nature of the Native and non-Native communities here.  The pain, the rupture, the commonalities and differences, are all being brought out into the open.  I like to think that my work has played a part in this.  After all, here in this forgotten corner of northwest Minnesota is where my eyes were opened, where I first put pen to paper, and where the land grabbed me with a force that has never let go. And I have tried to give it voice through my work.

I’m fond of saying that we each have to live in a way that pays the rent for our time on earth.  Between the wonderful engagement in Red Lake and the warm evening in Bemidji, I get a good feeling that maybe my rent is partially paid.

My reward for these days was a touch with people who have touched my heart, the lapping of lake waters and the nighttime cry of the loons outside our window, and a pontoon ride along this northern most part of the Mississippi with my wife at my side and a dog on my lap.

If there was nothing more, I could die happy.

But I don’t get to die, happily or otherwise.  Bemidji is in the rearview mirror and we’re off to Park Rapids and Beagle and Wolf books, who have been among my strongest supporters for 35 years.

Another precious homecoming. I could get used to this.

Day 7, Bemidji, Minnesota Read More »

Day 6: Red Lake

You can’t go home again? I don’t want to hear it.

When I get to Red Lake, I’m home.

I can’t explain it. Bemidji, the town where we spent 25 years, feels distant, even in its familiarity. But Red Lake, where I spent only three years, makes me feel like I never left. You can attribute it to the fact that not much changes on the reservation. You can say it has to do with the people. You can attribute it to any number of causes or circumstances, but I can’t help but feel it has to do with the fact that I was allowed into the taproot experience of this vast piece of land, held in common by the Ojibwe, that has never been owned by the United States.

As I keep saying over and over about Indian experience in general as well as Red Lake in particular, what you see on the surface does not speak to the deep resonances of a place and people whose roots don’t trail off into some other part of America or some European or African country.

These folks are of and from this land, and the land has an unassailable resonance not obscured by the crisscrossing of immigrant cultures and transient movements. I tend not to trust single words to describe things, but I can’t do better than one of my favorite words to express the experience I am trying to describe: “quiddity”. The people and land have a quiddity that is irreducible.

But enough of the Kentian ruminations. This homecoming was a true highlight of the tour. The college treated me in that way that the Native folks have always treated honored guests. A tour of the college given by the college president, platters of food for folks attending the talk, an image of me on a big screen that made me feel like the wizard of Oz. The key word is “respect”. Native people understand respect, both given and received. It is one of the reasons why I love being around them. They hold people who show respect in higher regard than people who wield power. America in general doesn’t get that, and we are reaping the results of that blindness in the grotesque misshapen reality of our contemporary politics.

But enough of that.

The highlight for me was five of my former students showing up. They had not all been together in 30 years, and seeing them opened floodgates of feelings and memories that defy description. Suddenly, the veil of years parted and it was just Nerburn with Keith and Karen and Donnie and Kevin and Missy. Like Karen said, it was as if we hadn’t missed a beat.

Oh, those were the days. That was where my life turned and got set on the course that it has been on ever since.

I hope all of you sometime have the experience of encountering the moments of greatest significance in your past and feeling the years melt away and long forgotten sensations rush in and overwhelm you with warmth. That’s what Red Lake was for me.

I left that day with a song in my heart.

Day 6: Red Lake Read More »

Scroll to Top